On/Off Infrared Remote Control

Therefore,
the first one you find allows you to turn off the light and enjoy your
movie in the best possible conditions. The infrared receiver part of
our project is entrusted to an integrated receiver (Sony SBX 1620-52)
which has the advantage of costing less than the components required to
make the same function. After being inverted by T1, the pulses
delivered by this receiver trigger IC2a, which is nothing other than a D
flip-flop configured in monostable mode by feeding back its output Q
on its reset input via R4 and C3. The pulse that is produced on the
output Q of IC.2A makes IC.2B change state, which has the effect of
turning on or turning off the LED contained in IC3.

This
circuit is an opto triac with zero-crossing detection which allows our
setup to accomplish switching without noise. It actually triggers the
triac T2 in the anode where the load to be controlled is found. The
selected model allows us to switch up to 3 amperes but nothing should
stop you from using a more powerful triac if this model turns out to be
insufficient for your use. In order to reduce its size and total cost,
the circuit is powered directly from the mains using capacitor C5 which
must be a class X or X2 model rated at 230 volts AC.

This type
of capacitor, called ‘self-healing’, is the only type we should use
today for power supplies that are connected to ground. ‘Traditional’
capacitors, rated at 400 volts, do not really have sufficient safety
guarantees in this area. Considering the fact that the setup is
connected directly to the mains, it must be mounted in a completely
insulated housing. A power outlet model works very well and can easily
be used to inter-space between the grounded wall outlet and that of the
remote control device.

Based on this principle, this setup
reacts to any infrared signal and, as we said before, this makes it
compatible with any remote control. On the other hand, it has a small
disadvantage which is that sometimes it might react to the ‘normal’
utilization of one of these, which could be undesirable. To avoid that,
we advise you to mask the infrared receiver window as much as possible
so that it is necessary to point the remote control in its direction
in order to activate it.

Diagram Radio Band Position Display

This circuit is an add-on unit for radio receivers that lack band-position display. The circuit presented here can show up to nine bands. It also incorporates a novel feature to make the display dance (blink) with the audio level from the receiver. The power-supply for the circuit can also be derived from the radio-set. The conversion of selected channel to BCD format is achieved using diodes D1 through D15 in con-junction with resistors R4 to R7. The voltages developed across these resistors (R4 through R7) serve as logic in-puts to BCD inputs of BCD to 7-segment de-coder IC1 (CD4511).

Circuit diagram :

Radio Band Position Display Circuit Diagram

When all switches are in  ‘off’ state, the volt-age across resistors R4 through R7 is logic zero, but when any of the switches S1 through S9 is slided to  ‘on’ position, the output across these resistors changes to output proper BCD code to represent the selected channel. This BCD code is converted to 7-segment display by IC1. By this arrangement of diodes, the need for another decimal-to-BCD converter IC and associated parts is obviated. Switches S1 through S9 are actually parts of existing band-switch of the radio. 

Usually, one or two changeover contacts would be found extra in the modular pushbutton-type band-switches of the radios. IC1’s display blanking pin 4 is connected to a display-blinker-control circuit wired around transistors T1 and T2. A small part of the audio signal from the speaker terminals is applied to rectifier diode D16 and filter capacitor C1 to pro-duce a pulsating DC across preset VR1. The sliding contact of preset VR1 is connected to the base of emitter-follower stage comprising transistor T2. The out-put of transistor T2, as amplified by transistor T1, is connected to pin 4 of IC1.Thus turning  ‘on’/‘off’ of display is con-trolled by the pulsating voltage developed from audio output of radio.

The power-supply regulator stage is needed only when radio power-supply is greater than 6V DC.

Author : M.K. Chandra Mouleeswaran Copyright : Electronic for you 2000

T his  automatic  bicycle  light  makes cycling in the dark much  easier (although you still need  to pedal of course). The circuit  takes  the  ambient  light  level  into account and only turns on  the light when it becomes dark.  The light is turned off when no  cycling has taken place for over  a minute or if it becomes light  again. The biggest advantage of  this circuit is that it has no manual controls. This way you can  never ‘forget’ to turn the light  on or off. This makes it ideal for  children and those of a forgetful  disposition.

Bicycle Light Image :

To detect when the bicycle is  used (in other words, when the  wheels turn), the circuit uses a  reed switch (S1), mounted on  the frame close to the wheel.  A small magnet is fixed to the  spokes (similar to that used with  most  bicycle  speedometers),  which  closes  the  reed  switch  once for every revolution of the  wheel. Whilst the wheel turns,  pulses are fed to the base of T1  via C1. This charges a small electrolytic capacitor (C2). When it is  dark enough and the LDR there-fore has a high resistance, T2  starts conducting and the lamp  is turned on. With every revolution of the wheel C2 is charged  up again. The charge in C2 ensures that T2  keeps conducting for about a minute after  the wheel stops turning. Almost any type of  light can be connected to the output of the  circuit.

Circuit diagram :

Automatic Bicycle Light Circuit Diagram

Part List :

Resistors
R1 = 1MΩ (SMD 0805)
R2,R4 = 100kΩ (SMD 0805)
R3,R6 = 1kΩ (SMD 0805)
R5 = LDR e.g. FW150 Conrad Electronics # 183547
Capacitors
C1 = 1µF 16V (SMD 0805)
C2 = 10µF 16V (SMD chip type)
C3 = 100nF (SMD 0805)
Semiconductors
T1 = BC807 (SMD SOT23)
T2 = STS6NF20V (SMD SO8)
Miscellaneous
S1 = reed switch (not on board) +
2-way right angle pinheader
BT1 = 3–12V (see text)

With a supply voltage of 3V the quiescent  current when the reed switch is open is just  0.14 μA. When the magnet happens to be in  a position such that S1 is closed,  the current is 3 μA. In either case  there is no problem using batteries to supply the circuit. The  supply voltage can be anywhere  from 3 to 12 V, depending on the  type of lamp that is connected. Since it is likely that the circuit  will be mounted inside a bicycle light it is important to keep  an eye on its dimensions. The  board has therefore been kept  very compact and use has been made of SMD components. Most  of them come in an 0805 pack-age.  C2 comes in a so called  chip version. The board is single sided with the top also acting as the solder side.

The print outline for the LDR (R5)  isn’t exactly the same as that of  the  outline  of  the  LDR  mentioned  in  the  component  list.  The outline is more a general one  because there is quite a variety  of different LDR packages on the  market. It is therefore possible  to use another type of LDR, if for  example the light threshold isn’t  quite right. The LDR may also be  mounted on the other side of the  board, but that depends on how  the board is mounted inside the  light. For the MOSFET there are also many alternatives available, such as the FDS6064N3 made  by   Fairchild ,  the  SI4864 DY  made by  Vishay Siliconix , the IR F74 0 4 made by IR F or the NTMS 4N01R 2G  made by ONSEMI. The reed switch also  comes in many different shapes and sizes; some of them are even waterproof and come with the wires already attached.

For the supply connection and  the connection to the lamp you  can either use PCB pins or solder the wires directly onto the  board. The soldered ends of the  pins can be shortened slightly so that they  don’t stick out from the bottom of the board.  This reduces the chance of shorts with any metal parts of the light. Do take care when you use a dynamo  to  power the circuit the alternating voltage must first be rectified! The same applies to  hub dynamos, which often also output an  alternating voltage.

Fuse Failure Indicator

The indicator shows when the mains is present at its output by a continuous glow of a neon bulb, La1, and when the fuse is blown by flashing of the neon bulb. When the fuse is intact, capacitor C2 acts as the series resistance for the neon bulb, so that this glows continuously. When the fuse has blow, the mains voltage across diode D1 is applied as a pulsating direct voltage to network R1-C1. Capacitor C1 charges slowly and when the voltage across it reaches 80–100 V, the neon bulb comes on. Capacitor C1 is then discharged slowly via diode D2 and the bulb.
Circuit diagram :

Mains/Fuse Failure Indicator Circuit Diagram

When the voltage across it has dropped sufficiently, the bulb goes out, whereupon C1 slowly charges again. This process repeats itself, so that, provided the values of R1 and C1 are right, the bulb flashes visibly. The potential across capacitor C2 is a ramp with a peak value of 30 V (which is, of course, applied to the load). Note that the neon bulb used for this purpose must not be a type that has a built-in series resistor.

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